Bagerhat- erstwhile Khalifabad of Bangladesh
Bagerhat is a UNESCO approved world heritage site, located in southwestern Bangladesh. The district sits at the confluence of the rivers Ganga and Brahmaputra. It is known as the “Mosque City”, and rightly so, as the district is renowned for having a large number of mosques and other monuments over an area of 50 sq. m.
Bagerhat, part of Sundarbans, was founded by the governor and Sufi saint Ulugh Khan Jahan in the 15th century. That he was a Turkish general is evident in the architectural style of the buildings, which led to the development of Muslim architecture in the Bengal region. He had acquired this forest area from Sultan Mahmud Shah of Bengal to lay down infrastructure for rice cultivation and the inhabitants. Embankments along streams, to keep away salt water and a network of hundreds of tanks, to store fresh water, are testimony of the workmanship of Khan Jahan and his combat engineers. He constructed hundreds of mosques, numerous road inns, madrasas, roads, and bridges- fundamentally laid down an entire settlement.
Significance of the World Heritage Site of Bagerhat
In 1973, UNESCO granted the status of World Heritage Site to the city of Bagerhat. The unique architectural style of the structures in the Mosque City of Bagerhat is known as Khan-e-Jahan, called so as general Ulugh was bestowed upon with the title of Khan-i-Azam. The buildings of this style remind one of Kalan and Khirki mosques in Delhi, which were built by Mohammed Tughlaq- clear evidence of the indigenization of Tughlaq architecture in Bengal. This can be attributed to the fact that Ulugh Khan served under the Tughlaq rules before the annexation of Delhi by Timur in 1938.
Khan-e-Jahan architectural style is distinct from the modern architecture of the rest of Bengal and can be found only in the region of Khalifabad. The building characteristics of the style were a modified version of Tughlaq architecture, better suited to survive the geography and hostile natural forces of the region. This proved to be the stepping stone for the development of the architecture of Bengal. The infrastructure laid out for the settlement and cultivation served as testimony of the technical genius of the builders.
Benagalization of Tughlaq Architecture
As per UNESCO Criteria (iv), the Mosque City of Bagerhat is a site of importance because of “an outstanding example of a type of building, architectural or technological ensemble or landscape which illustrates a significant stage in human history”. The site spread over 50 sq.m. encompasses several mosques such as Sixty Dome Mosque, Singar, Bibi Begeni, Chunakhola, Ranabijoypur, Nine Dome, Zindaa Pir and Reza Khuda as well as water tanks, known as Dighis like Ghora Dighi and Khanjali Dighi. The infrastructural layout comprises roads, bridges, cisterns and reservoirs, and provides evidence of mastery of spatial organisation and planning and expertise in building construction. The structures are in use today, serving as a means of social and cultural harmony.
The Bengal region lacked construction materials like stone and rock. Also, the area is prone to frequent flooding due to changing river courses, has an intimidating tropical climate and the soil has high levels of salt due to proximity to the sea. This led to the failure of other architectural styles introduced in this region. All these factors forced the builders in Khan-e-Jahan style in Bagerhat to embrace the local context to withstand the passage of time and natural calamities. Thus, the builders turned to and made excellent use of the rich alluvial silt deposit by making burnt brick out of this silt. The structures were built to suit the capabilities of burnt brick, as can be seen in the use of arches, vaults, load-bearing walls, and most importantly domes. Terra cotta burnt tiles were also used to prevent humidity and moisture from damaging the structural cores. Hence, Khan-e-Jahan style came into being, and so did the Mosque City of Bagerhat.
Shait Gumbad, the Sixty Dome Mosque is one of the largest mosques in this heritage site. As the name suggests, it has a staggering number of 60 domes and is the only mosque in the Bengal region with the orthodox mosque plan. Also, it has borrowed features from the fortified city of Tughlaqabad.
Another structure of importance is the humble Khan-e-Jahan’s mausoleum. The tomb might not appeal much to the eyes but the mastery of Khan Jahan’s sappers can be seen in the details. The stone damp proof course, rainwater disposal treatment, and use of terra-cotta tiles- the builders were aware of the challenges posed by the geo-climatic conditions of the region.
Losing the Mosque City of Bagerhat
Bagerhat is threatened by the increasing sea-level rise and salinity, just like most parts of Bangladesh. In the past also it was abandoned due to the adjacent river changing its course. Most of the buildings in this region, curiously, have low plinth levels. Hence due to salinity and moisture, the walls and columns often buckle, destroying the buildings. Another major concern is efflorescence, which is resulting in degradation of building materials due to water seepage. These threats are further exacerbated by the rising global sea levels.
This World Heritage Site can be one of the best examples for nature and culture conservation authorities coming together with a plan to address the common issues pertaining to natural and social eco systems. It indeed can be a lesson of survival from an architectural style that has endured many years of hostile natural forces, albeit at its own pace.
