Buildings Transformed into Everlasting Tales
Buildings, similar to books and manuscripts, hold stories within their walls. These physical structures stand as concrete evidence of history. India, renowned for its rich culture and heritage, is home to such buildings. While some are cherished, others are forgotten. These buildings not only tell tales of the past but also help us construct narratives of bygone eras.
Much like stories, these buildings undergo change, both physically and narratively. This article delves into some of the lesser-known buildings that hold rich narratives and have experienced harsh transitions due to the passage of time.
A Hidden Treasure turns into a Broken Courtyard
Khazanchi Haveli, Delhi
Standing in the lanes of Chandni Chowk, a treasure hidden in ruins, called Khazanchi Haweli, once belonged to the accountants and bookkeepers of Shahajhan. Much like its peers in Shahjahanabad, the haveli may bear the weight of time, but it still holds onto its mystique. The name Khazanchi indicates a rich history of treasure guardians during the Mughal era. Stories speak of a secret tunnel linking the haveli to the Red Fort for a secure transfer of money and jewels, showcasing the Mughals’ wealth organization.
Today, the haveli is dilapidated, with crumbling pillars and broken arches. Recent efforts to beautify the area have led to a sign directing visitors to Gali Khazanchi. This narrow alley leads to the haveli’s decorated entrance, a beautifully painted metal door that doesn’t reflect its neglected condition. Stepping inside, visitors are transported back in time. Khazanchi Haveli, dating back to Shahjahan’s reign, offers a peek into the life of a wealthy treasurer. Its architecture speaks of opulence, with white marble, detailed arches, columns, and carvings. Once a grand gathering place, adorned with Persian carpets, lamps, and vases, the haveli’s worn platforms were where guests were entertained, while drapes added a seasonal comfort.
Once A Sun temple, Now A Devil’s Cave
Martand temple, Kashmir
Built in 490 AD by King Lalitaditya Muktapida, the Kashmiri’s Sun temple, now called ‘Shaitan ka Gufa’ (Devil’s Cave) withstood the test of time. Historians believe that the temple was dedicated to Lord Vishnu. It soon became the largest sun temple in India. The kings held court, and the priests offered prayers. Later, It was destroyed by Muslim ruler Sikandar Butshikan. It is believed that the temple was so strongly built that it took the invaders quite a lot of time to destroy it. Today, only the ruins remain.
‘It overlooks the finest view in Kashmir and perhaps in the world. Beneath it lies the paradise of the east, with its sacred streams, orchards, and green fields, surrounded by vast snowy mountains, seem to smile upon the beautiful valley below.’ S.N. Dhar in his book “Kashmir: Eden of the East”
The Martand Sun Temple, situated atop a plateau, is a remarkable architectural wonder entirely crafted from stone. Its complex includes a main sanctuary, a collonaded courtyard, and smaller shrines. What sets it apart is its symmetry, with every component perfectly proportioned to create a sense of balance. The central shrine, which stands at 60 feet, is adorned with intricate carvings of Hindu deities. Surrounding the temple are over 400 columns supporting an elaborate roof. Despite the damage it has suffered, visitors can still admire the attention to detail that went into crafting this masterpiece.
Pavilion That Echoes Stories Of Love
Rani Roopmati Mahal, Mandu, Madhya Pradesh
A legend from the ancient city of Mandu, the Rani Roopmati Pavilion, adjacent to Baz Bahadur’s palace, dates back to the 16th century and echoes a tale of love and tragedy. Baz Bahadur constructed this pavilion for the singer he fell in love with. The pavilion, much like a palace, is situated on a hilltop overlooking the Narmada River. Roopmati could have a spectacular view of the city and worship the Narmada River, which flowed nearby. Their affection knew no religious barriers. However, their romance met an abrupt end with Baz Bahadur’s defeat to Adham Khan, a general of Akbar who had desires for Rupmati and invaded Mandu to win her affection. After Mandu lost its battle to the Mughals, Rupmati chose her honour over her life.
Today, Administered by the Archaeological Survey of India, the Rani Roopmati Pavilion stands as a beautiful example of Afghan architecture in sandstone. Constructed in phases over different periods of time, the original blueprint featured a spacious hall with adjoining rooms on either side and a long, sloping base. An extension on the western side was added later, allowing the queen to conduct religious rituals within the fort’s confines and giving her easier access to the riverfront. Rani Roopmati’s Pavilion’s basement corridors have a series of arched openings, and the western ledge contains a large reservoir known as Rewa Kund. During the monsoon season, this reservoir collected rainwater through a channel that connected the structure’s roof to the tank below. Mandu was once a vibrant hub serving as the capital of a Muslim state in northern India, and the Pavilion, with its remarkable acoustics, once served as the venue for singing competitions between Rupmati and Baz Bahadur. Now it lies in ruins, abandoned for more than 4 centuries. Despite its dilapidated state, the site continues to have a mysterious and intriguing charm.
Embracing Our History
In conclusion, it is important to cherish and safeguard these buildings, as they serve as remnants of our past and provide insights into our cultural heritage. While grand palaces and sacred sites may be preserved by archaeologists, smaller, lesser-known sites remain undiscovered. Fortunately, there is a growing interest among travellers to explore and document these forgotten structures. Perhaps, if we continue to understand and appreciate the stories behind these structures, we can better connect with our history and draw inspiration for the future.
Citations:
Chatterjee, A. (no date) Do you know about this Haveli in Old Delhi?, Outlook Traveller. Available at: https://www.outlooktraveller.com/experiences/heritage/do-you-know-about-this-haveli-in-old-delhi (Accessed: 18 February 2024).
Magazine, S. (2018) The legend and destruction of Martand, the sun temple in kashmir: Sanskriti – hinduism and Indian culture website, Sanskriti. Available at: https://www.sanskritimagazine.com/the-legend-and-destruction-of-martand-the-sun-temple-in-kashmir/ (Accessed: 18 February 2024).
choudhury, S. (no date) Where stones echo: The sounds of mandu, Outlook India. Available at: https://www.outlookindia.com/travel/where-stones-echo-the-sounds-of-mandu-news-194757 (Accessed: 18 February 2024).
Strutner, S. (2017) These abandoned ruins are India’s secret ‘Treasure trove’, HuffPost. Available at: https://www.huffpost.com/entry/mandu_n_5688271 (Accessed: 18 February 2024).
Abhyankar, S. et al. (2017) Mandu: Tragic love story of Baz Bahadur and Roopmati, Astonishing India. Available at: https://astonishingindia.net/2017/06/27/mandu-tragic-love-story-of-baz-bahadur-and-roopmati/ (Accessed: 18 February 2024).
