The Art of Movement – The art of jewellery design has historically played an essential role in merging design, fashion, and craftsmanship. No doubt, jewellery plays a significant role in a person’s life. It has many facets to unfold throughout. Jewellery has long represented wealth, power, status, and tradition. A combination of natural and man-made elements inspires the design of these pieces. By reflecting on the zeitgeist, it becomes a solid repository of ideas.
Founded in Paris in 1896 by a Dutch diamond cutter and his father-in-law, Van Cleef, Arpel is a world-renowned luxury jewellery brand. A collection of their archival jewellery is on display in their art of movement exhibition. London‘s Design Museum hosted this extensive exhibition. The museum displays various historical art documents, gouache illustrations, and jewellery displays. A significant focus of the Art of Movement exhibition is the transformation of living moments into eternal objects created by the high jewellery house Van Cleef & Arpels.
Achieving more significant levels of sophistication in jewellery design has been a fine process, thanks to the adventurous spirit of the early modern period, followed by the industrial revolution of the 19th century. The designs of Van Cleef & Arpels have accompanied those bold human odysseys of wanderlust since its foundation in 1906. The human movement was depicted through rhythmic positions, beautiful curves, and soaring leaps as part of this concept of movement. Ballerinas, as they twinkle in precious stone tutus or gold sequins, have been an integral part of Maison’s universe since 1941, and dance continues to be her source of inspiration.
A display of craftsmanship and designs spans the entire era. Volumes and compositions by Van Cleef and Arpel are well known for their uniqueness. Based on that, the exhibition is divided into four themes: nature alive, dance, abstract movements, and elegance. Whether it’s form, inspiration, or construction, each theme reflects the concept and aspect of the movement as it exists in its raw form. An exhibition’s overall design reflects its central theme. A floating ribbon welcomes visitors to the exhibition. Further displays are guided by it. The silhouette flower clip, a symbolic design by Van Cleef & Arpels from the 1930s, inspires the flower at the entrance.
The exhibition displays the art pieces on vertical floor-to-ceiling supports. With pleated fabric backdrops, each showcase is greatly inspired by the world of couture. The backdrop design incorporates an ancient French pleating technique for this exhibition. Maison Lognon has exemplified this craftsmanship since the mid-19th century. In every showcase, the design follows the theme. As the drawing and pleats of the fabric capture the movement inherent in the exhibition, the scenography is essential to the surroundings. A key aspect of the exhibition is its ability to convey its meaning actively. Over a century of craftsmanship has gone into their work, and the display celebrates design in all its forms. There are artefacts on display from different eras, as well as jewellery, high jewellery, watches, and other objects from Nature, Dance, Elegance, and Abstraction.
The Nature Alive Display | The Art of Movement
A love for nature can be seen in Maison’s flora and fauna-inspired creations, whether figurative or stylised. Floating on a precious breeze, golden feathers align on shoulders, Mystery Set flowers blossom on jacket lapels, or prepare to bloom on the day or evening dresses. In adorning clips and bracelets, animals are seen frozen mid-action, just like snapshots.
Abstract Movements
Playing with shapes and materials, the Maison initially interpreted artistic movements throughout the 20th century. Van Cleef & Arpels’ goal has always been to get the beholder’s attention, from geometrically decorated boxes in the 1930s to rounded lines inspired by Modernism. In the 1960s and 1970s, some works recall art and draw us into a world of illusion, whereas sinuous and curvy jewels evoke a spirit of freedom.
Elegance | The Art of Movement
In pursuit of realism and the desire to accompany women for decades, Van Cleef & Arpels has drawn inspiration from the world of couture since its foundation in 1906 in Paris’ Place Vendôme. One of their unique features is the ability to transform these jewels to match different outfits. Pieces were inspired by passementerie motifs that mimicked the body’s movements. A jewel that simulates serge fabric or rope can be moulded perfectly to the silhouette of a woman, demonstrating the versatility of this kind of jewellery.
Throughout the history of Van Cleef & Arpels, its expertise in High Jewellery has been blended with great delicacy of vision to imbibe even the most precious materials with lightness and dynamism. Van Cleef & Arpels’ inventiveness and poetry have contributed to a highly distinctive style, including its Mystery Set technique, transformable Zip necklace, and Alhambra motif. Maison opens the door to a timeless universe of beauty and harmony, whether inspired by nature, couture, dance or imaginary worlds.This exhibition draws visitors into a dreamlike world of movement and harmony through pieces from Maison’s patrimonial collection, archives, and private collections.
References:
- The art of movement, Van Cleef & Arpels – exhibition at Design Museum in London (no date) ArtRabbit. Available at: https://www.artrabbit.com/events/the-art-of-movement-van-cleef-arpels
- Shah, D. (2022) Artistry & craftsmanship: The designs of Van Cleef & Arpels at the design museum , STIRworld. STIRworld.com. Available at: https://www.stirworld.com/see-lifestyle-artistry-craftsmanship-the-designs-of-van-cleef-arpels-at-the-design-museum2).
- Silver, H. (2022) Last chance to see: Van cleef & arpels celebrates movement at the Design Museum, wallpaper.com. Wallpaper*. Available at: https://www.wallpaper.com/watches-and-jewellery/last-chance-to-see-van-cleef-arpels-celebrates-movement-at-the-design-museum