A Rich Tradition of African Clothing

African textiles and fashion is an expansive topic that may give insight into many African cultures. Now, African clothing has a colorful history. This history dates back around 75,000 years. Although documenting the history of African designs might be challenging, Asian art provides clues about the materials employed. According to Egyptian art, flax weaving originated about 5000 BC. There are also hieroglyphics from 3000 BC that depict looms. African clothing embodies a rich culture that has evolved and influenced world fashion. Because of its originality and cultural relevance, African fashion continues to be dynamic and relevant in the modern world, inspiring designers all over the world.

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African Heritage Models © David Beatty

Materials and Evolution

Animal skin, fur, feathers, and bark fabric were typically used to make clothing. These materials, however, weren’t appropriate for the extremely hot climate that exists in Africa. These textiles were probably most commonly used to make robes that were thrown over the body and aprons that were tied around the waist. Later, West Africans made textiles out of cotton and other materials. In Mali and Nigeria, woven fibers dating back to the 800s have been found. Amazing stories exist of Kanka Musa, also called Mansa Musa, and his companions traveling to Mecca in the 1300s while clothed in cotton braided with gold threads. African-print textiles have been used to clothing most people in Central and West Africa since the 1800s. These textiles, which were inspired by Indonesian batik or wax-resist cloth, are rather old. The diverse print patterns and variety of colors seen in African textiles have had a significant impact on the fashion industry, influencing everything from traditional clothing to contemporary dashikis and outfits with African influences.

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Bark Cloth Production in the town of Masaka © Michael Kirkpatrick

Variety and Regional Styles – A Rich Tapestry of Traditions

African fashion ranges from vibrantly colored fabrics to robes with abstract embroidery and colorfully beaded necklaces and bracelets. Africa is such a vast and varied continent that traditional attire varies from nation to nation. For instance, the traditional textile industries of weaving, dying, and printing have produced distinctive regional clothing designs in several West African nations. These customs can, nonetheless, coexist with Western fashions.

The tradition of producing, designing, and embroidering African textiles is as old as time, intertwining stories of heritage, culture, and identity. These fabrics function as living artifacts, preserving the stories of people, communities, and nations. Alan Donovan, the founder of The African Heritage House, realized the need to conserve these cultural treasures and put together an impressive collection from throughout the continent, which is currently on display at the African Heritage House near Nairobi.

  1. Kuba fabric (Democratic Republic of Congo): Kuba fabric, made from palm fibers by the Bakuba people, is known for its beautiful designs that have influenced artists such as Matisse and Picasso.
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African tribal Kuba Cloth © African Heritage House

2. Bark cloth: The Baganda people of Uganda, Cameroon, and the Congo value bark cloth for ceremonial and ritual purposes. One of the first textiles produced in tropical Sub-Saharan Africa, more precisely in Central Africa, is this one. The bark of a tropical fig tree is soaked and hammered repeatedly over a log until it expands up to four times into fabric. The material is then embellished with embroidery or dyed to produce embroidered dresses, crocheted feathery caps, and the popular Bamileke sewn resist bark cloth.

3. Ase Oke (Yoruba, Nigeria): Woven entirely by men on thin strip looms, Ase Oke is culturally significant among the Yoruba and has lace-like patterns and metallic threads. Some popular Ase Oke styles are:

  • Alaari: a lovely red that’s worn mostly on special occasions. 
  • Sanyan: This is popular for a variety of occasions and is brown, usually a light brown color. 
  • Etu: Yoruba people frequently wear this dark blue one, which is also quite popular.

 

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Ase Oke Cloth by Yoruba © African Heritage House

4. Okene fabric (Nigeria): Woven by Ebira women on large stationary looms, Okene fabric represents grandeur with its integration of metallic threads and is commonly used as head ties or wraps.

5. Kente cloth (Ashanti, Ghana): Renowned as one of Africa’s finest textiles, Kente fabric is skillfully weaved by men for ceremonial events, symbolizing cultural pride and tradition.

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African heritage models in Ashanti Kente Cloths © African Heritage House
  1. Adire fabric (Yoruba, Nigeria): Accented using resist dye processes, Adire fabric features bright designs and has a particular role in Nigeria‘s textile tradition, as it is only worn by women. 
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Adire cloth by Yoruba Nigeria © African Heritage House

7. Bokolonfini (Mali): Often known as “mud cloth,” Bokolonfini displays inventive motifs on strip-woven cotton stained with mud, capturing audiences with its distinct look.

8. Lamba Mena (Merino, Madagascar): Woven by Merina women, Lamba Mena represents elegance and tradition, and is frequently used for ceremonial rites and important events.

9. Adinkira (Ashanti, Ghana): Adinkira fabrics, hand-printed with symbolic stamps, are prized for their royal importance and worn at funerals and other ceremonial events.

There are other different kinds made in Africa, each with a distinct make and design.

Symbolism and Meaning

These fabrics are more than simply materials. They embody the cultural heritage, craftsmanship, and storytelling traditions of Africans. From the palm fibers of the Democratic Republic of the Congo to the intricate designs of Nigeria’s Yoruba people, each textile is an intricate work of art of history and identity.
Unraveling the threads of African textiles reveals not only incredible artistry, but also profound stories of survival, innovation, and cultural continuity. These textiles serve as historical conduits, linking generations and countries while also reminding us of African culture’s enduring heritage. 

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Vanishing Textiles of Africa © David Beatty

Influence and Evolution

African fashion trends have spread beyond their borders. African shapes and designs have always influenced the creativity of European fashion designers. They have inspired clothing designs, fashion accessories, and jewelry, as well as ethnic motifs. In recent years, companies like Vlisco have republished the material, and the Chinese have dubbed it in every color conceivable, making it highly popular in both Central and West Africa.

African fashion is undergoing a revolution, driven by designers aiming to alter its image. These artisans are challenging the stereotype of African fashion as entirely traditional. Instead, they’re integrating their designs with modern styles while still respecting their rich cultural history. Vibrant prints, exclusive materials, and contemporary forms highlight this combination. The result is a compelling new story for African fashion on the world stage, which has finally received the acclaim it deserves. 

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V&A’s ‘Africa Fashion’ exhibition_Vogue © V&A

African textiles are more than simply cloth; they are historical and creative threads woven throughout our world. African textiles weave a colorful tapestry of tradition and creativity, telling stories of persistence and identity. From the complex designs of Kuba cloth to the regal grace of Ase Oke, each textile represents African craftsmanship’s long tradition. Let us honor their beauty and cultural history as they influence global fashion and cross borders. 

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Author

Kiruba Shankari is a final-year architecture student and an enthusiastic writer of poetry and articles. She draws inspiration from music and enjoys researching various architectural forms. Her interest in psychology drives her to write and create designs to fascinate people ensuring their satisfaction.