Examine the world around you, your sofa, your clothes, and your home; what do you see? We see and use textiles everywhere, our clothes, the sheets on our beds, and more. We use textiles as a necessity in the form of clothing. We use it to decorate our homes and offices. We still see it when we travel as aeroplanes and spacesuits use textiles. But what exactly is textile? How are textile designs used? How were textile designs discovered? How did Historical Textile Designs evolve into what they are today? How are they different from each culture and era?

Inside the World of Textiles: Historical Textile Design - Sheet1
Tidy Minimal Interior_©Tu Tu – Unsplash

What is Textile Design?

Inside the World of Textiles: Historical Textile Design - Sheet1
A Kazak Rug, c. 1900s_©Erol Ahmed – Unsplash

Textile came from the Latin word “Texere”, which means “to weave”. Textiles are anything that uses yarns, fabrics, and fibres. Qualities like strength, flexibility, abrasion resistance, and moisture control are needed to make it functional for use by men. Textiles are used in a variety of things, one of which is for protective use, like bulletproof vests, helmets, and cut-resistant gloves. They vary according to people’s needs and how they will be used – for protective purposes, home decoration, or fashion. They are used in diverse ways, but textiles wouldn’t be as interesting as they are if it isn’t made through a careful selection of colour, pattern, texture, and material. And the field that involves creating these textiles is called Textile Design. Textile Design is a highly creative field where a technical understanding and fashion sense are needed. The popular brands we know today require a distinctive print or surface pattern to have their own identity, especially in the fashion industry.

Historical Textile Design

Inside the World of Textiles: Historical Textile Design - Sheet3
Chinese Fabrics_©Jan Canty – Unsplash

The history of textiles is as old as human civilisation. As time goes by, historical textile design continues to evolve through time with the ever-changing needs of human beings. During prehistoric times, textile design focused more on practicality rather than aesthetics. One of the main uses was for clothing to keep humans warm. These were made using animal skins, furs, leaves, and many others. When the Neolithic cultures settled in, historical textile design became increasingly complex. Humans have learned to weave together materials that resemble what we use today. Everything was made by hand, from gathering materials from plants and animals to twisting them and making yarn. This made historical textile designs available only to wealthy people. These Aristocrats started importing fabrics and colourful dyes that brought different fabrics like Chinese silk to other places like India, Africa, and Europe. At this time, clothing was still the most dominant form of textile design, but Aristocrats could afford these textiles to decorate their palaces with such luxurious pieces.

The turning point for historical textile design was during the Industrial Revolution, when the cotton gin, spinning jenny, and the power loom were invented. Production of fabrics was now possible on a much larger scale and now automated. With mass production, textiles are now not only available for the wealthy. It has made the prices of textiles drop, making them more affordable for society. These made materials more readily available, which paved the way for people or designers to experiment with them unlike others. Historical textile design has laid the groundwork for contemporary textile designs to be what it is today.

What are some iconic examples of Textile Designs from diverse cultures and eras?

Different countries all over the world are known for their local traditional textiles. These textiles often have bright and vivid colours, and they are mostly intricately embellished fabrics that highlight designs that are unique to their own culture. Here are some examples of these exquisite textile designs.

African Wax Prints

Inside the World of Textiles: Historical Textile Design - Sheet4
Adjamé Market_©Eva Blue – Unsplash

African Wax Prints, also called “Ankara”, are common materials for clothing in West and Central Africa. These Dutch creations were inspired by the Indonesian Batik design and introduced to the Africans during the 19th Century. Now, they have begun to adapt their designs and colours that suit the tastes of the Africans.

Batik

Inside the World of Textiles: Historical Textile Design - Sheet5
Batik Process_©Mahmur Marganti – Unsplash

The wax-resist batik cloth is a symbol of Indonesian culture. They feature repetitive patterns hand-drawn or pressed using a copper stamp. The technique originated from the island of Java, Indonesia. These are said to bring good luck, and certain patterns were reserved only for the Indonesian royalty. In 2009, UNESCO recognised Batik as a “Masterpiece of Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity from Indonesia”.

Kuba Cloth

Inside the World of Textiles: Historical Textile Design - Sheet6
Kuba Cloth_©A.Davey – Flickr

Kuba Cloth is a raffia cloth unique to the Dominican Republic of the Congo. The intricate designs of the Kuba Cloth are of cultural significance and widely admired in art. These are inspired by imagination and the environment. Its texture is similar to velvet’s, characterised by neutral colours and rectangular patterns.

Shisha Embroidery

Inside the World of Textiles: Historical Textile Design - Sheet7
Shisha Detail_©Karen Cattoire – Flickr

Shisha embroidery is a representative of the Indian Aesthetic that uses mirrors sewn into the fabric, making it stand out. Mirror embroidery dates to the 17th century and is believed to be influenced by shishesh, a Persian aesthetic that means glass. These reflective elements are also used in wall hangings, tapestries, and other home decor.

Suzani

Inside the World of Textiles: Historical Textile Design - Sheet8
Suzani Bag_©Maryam Montague – Flickr

Suzani is from the Persian word “Suzan” which means “needle” and is a type of embroidered and decorative tribal textile from Central Asia. Traditionally, these were made by brides as part of their dowry, which is presented to the groom on their wedding day. 

Tartan

Inside the World of Textiles: Historical Textile Design - Sheet9
Tartan_©Paul Hudson – Flickr

Tartan is a patterned cloth with crisscrossed, horizontal, and vertical bands in multiple colours most closely identified with Scottish garb, particularly kilts. It dates far back to the Middle Ages and was originally made of woven wool but is now made of other materials. Tartan is sometimes called “plaid”, but plaid is a large piece of tartan cloth worn in many different ways in Scotland.

Yuzen Silk

Kimono Lady_©Nick Wood – Unsplash

Dating back to Japan’s Edo period, Yuzen is a dyeing process where dyes are applied inside outlines of dyed or undyed rice-paste resist, typically drawn either freehand or stencilled. Most kimonos are made using this technique which can quickly produce these kimonos that appear to be painted freehand with dyes. Exquisite fans, coin purses, and many other items are also made using this technique.

Conclusion

Historical Textile Design has evolved throughout diverse cultures and timelines. From Ancient Egypt to the Renaissance to the Modern Era, textile design has incorporated each period’s artistry, culture, and technological advancements. It has also evolved from the ever-changing needs of humans, from the practical use of textile designs during the prehistoric era to the use of textiles today as an art and fashion. Textile design has become an essential part of the manufacturing process and a necessity for men. To create their own identity, brands must now have their unique print or surface pattern. Anyone aspiring to be in the fashion or interior design industry should keep an eye out for the latest trends in design and have a superior eye for colour, pattern, and texture and an appreciation for the fine points of textiles and fashion.

References:

440 Industries (2022) Textile Design – The History And Concept, 440 Industries. [online]. Available at: https://440industries.com/textile-design-the-history-and-concept/ (Accessed: 29 June 2023). 

The Art Story Contributors (2022) Textile Art Movement Overview, The Art Story. Edited by K. Stephenson. [online]. Available at: https://www.theartstory.org/movement/textile-art/ (Accessed: 29 June 2023). 

Barnes, S. and Cole, M. (2022) Textile Art: How an Ancient Practice Continues To Reinvent Itself, My Modern Met. [online]. Available at: https://mymodernmet.com/contemporary-textile-art-history/ (Accessed: 30 June 2023). 

Bresler, A. (2018) 9 Amazing Textile Designs From Around the World and Their Unique Stories, Matador Network. [online]. Available at: https://matadornetwork.com/read/9-textile-designs-around-world/ (Accessed: 30 June 2023). 

Hossain, Md.A. (2023) Textile design | History, Objectives | Different types of textile design, Advance Textile. [online]. Available at: https://www.advancetextile.net/2021/05/textile-design-history-objectives-different-types-of-textile-design.html (Accessed: 30 June 2023). 

Kiron, M.I. (2021) Textile design: Types and Importance in Clothing Industry, Textile Learner. [online]. Available at: https://textilelearner.net/textile-design-types-importance/ (Accessed: 28 June 2023). 

Kumar, M. (2023a) History of Textile Design, tutorialspoint. [online]. Available at: https://www.tutorialspoint.com/history-of-textile-design (Accessed: 29 June 2023). 

Kumar, M. (2023b) Textile Design: Meaning and Types, tutorialspoint. [online]. Available at: https://www.tutorialspoint.com/textile-design-meaning-and-types (Accessed: 28 June 2023). 

Le Mark School of Art (2021) What is Textile Design?, Le Mark School of Art. [online]. Available at: https://lemarkinstitute.com/what-is-textile-design/ (Accessed: 28 June 2023). 

Przybylek, S. and Blakeley, S. (2017) Types of Textile Design, Study.com. [online]. Available at: https://study.com/academy/lesson/types-of-textile-design.html (Accessed: 28 June 2023). 

Przybylek, S. and Clayton, J. (2017) Textile Design: Definition & History, Study.com. [online]. Available at: https://study.com/academy/lesson/textile-design-definition-history.html#:~:text=Textile%20design%20is%20the%20process,cloth%20or%20printed%20on%20fabric. (Accessed: 28 June 2023). 

Textile School (2018a) Evolution of Textile Industry, Textile School. [online]. Available at: https://www.textileschool.com/126/evolution-of-textile-industry/ (Accessed: 30 June 2023). 

Textile School (2018b) History of textiles, Textile School. [online]. Available at: https://www.textileschool.com/182/history-of-textiles-ancient-to-modern-fashion-history/ (Accessed: 29 June 2023). 

Author

A licensed Architect from the Philippines, seeking to learn more about Architecture through different experiences and research. Interested in a wide variety of topics that mainly revolves around Art, Design, and Architecture. Currently working in the field of developing the most beautiful memorial parks in the Philippines.