India is a land steeped in history, where echoes of its glorious past are scattered across its diverse landscape. From the northern peaks to the southern shores, remnants of ancient civilizations stand as silent witnesses, their walls preserving the tales of legendary dynasties, epic battles, hard-won victories, and crushing defeats. The architecture of these eras is a direct reflection of the political climate of the time- symbolising power, strength, and intricate detail in every stone. Each structure not only serves a functional purpose but also embodies the rulers’ ambitions, vision, and desire to leave a permanent mark on history. One such place is Thanjavur, a city immersed in art and opulence, and the centre of the powerful Chola dynasty during the 9th to 12th centuries.
Thanjavur, Tamil Nadu
Thanjavur, the prominent cradle of South Indian culture, pulses with a history as rich and complex as the dynasties that once ruled its lands. It stands as the birthplace of classical music and dance, a home to arts and a beacon for scholars, and a haven for traditional crafts like the famed Thanjavur paintings. This city’s legacy is a testament to its role as a powerful political force, shaping the course of history in southern India through its influential rulers and strategic position.
The history of the rise of Thanjavur dates back to the 6th century, when it was captured by the Mutharayars, and was ruled by them up to the 9th century, until the Cholas under their monarch, King Vijayalaya, conquered Thanjavur from King Elango Mutharayar. Under his rule, the city was established as the nerve centre of the Chola power, laying the foundation for the dynasty’s resurgence and eventual development into one of South India’s greatest empires.
After the fall of the Cholas, the city was ruled by a number of dynasties like the Pandyas, Nayaks, Marathas, and eventually the British. This fusion of power and creativity is perhaps best captured within the walls of the glorious Thanjavur Palace, a place where history and heritage come alive, offering a vivid portal into the royal sophisticated artistry that once flourished here.
Thanjavur Palace
When the Vijayanagara Empire, under which the Nayaks served as governors, weakened in the 16th century, the Nayaks of Thanjavur gained independence and established their dynasty. As newly formed autonomous rulers, the Nayaks constructed a fortified and grand palace that could serve as the administrative centre for their kingdom. The Thanjavur Palace was primarily a royal residence and a hub for governance, cultural patronage, and military strategy. Gradually, it became a centre of art, culture, and learning, reflecting the Nayaks’ ambition to establish themselves as legitimate and powerful rulers in the region.
Thanjavur was successfully conquered in 1674 by Vyankojirajah Bhonsle (or Ekojirajah I Bhonsle), the Maratha feudatory of the Sultan of Bijapur and half-brother of Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj of the Bhonsle dynasty. The Marathas exercised their sovereignty over Thanjavur up to the end of the 18th century. They further expanded and renovated the Thanjavur Palace, by adding their own architectural touches, blending their style with the existing Dravidian design. Thus, the palace is a fusion of both the Nayak and Maratha influences, each contributing to its unique architectural character.
The following are the major constituents to explore in the sprawling complex of the Thanjavur Palace:
Saraswathi Mahal Library and Museum
Being one of the oldest libraries in Asia and one of the few surviving mediaeval libraries in the world, the Saraswathi Mahal Library houses a vast collection of over 49,000 rare manuscripts preserved both on paper and ancient palm leaf scrolls. These span in a variety of languages including Sanskrit, Tamil, Telugu, Marathi, and Manipravalam, covering a wide range of subjects such as literature, science, philosophy, and religion. The library is an invaluable repository of knowledge, housing a section dedicated to rare and old collections including priceless copies of the Ramayana and Mahabharata, and other significant Sanskrit works, offering a unique window into the intellectual and cultural affluence of the bygone eras.
The Saraswathi Mahal Museum, an integral part of the library, was established to exhibit a rich and diverse collection of relics that highlight the region’s cultural and artistic heritage. The museum features royal memorabilia from the Nayak and Maratha periods, including exquisite weapons, intricate paintings, remarkable sculptures, a wide array of ivory figurines, old coins, and portraits of the Thanjavur rulers. Visitors can also explore rare maps, genealogical charts of the Maratha kings, and a fascinating collection of ancient musical instruments, all contributing to a deeper understanding of Thanjavur’s illustrious past.
Durbar Hall
The Durbar Hall, also known as the “Durbar Hall of the Maratha Kings,” or the Lakshmivilasam, is one of the most striking and significant parts of the complex. This grand hall was used as the court hall by both the Nayak and the Maratha kings. This is the royal audience chamber where kings received dignitaries and conducted state affairs.
Stucco images and priceless murals adorn the hall, showcasing a blend of Dravidian and Maratha styles. The high ceilings are characterised by intricate, colourful and ornate carvings that depict scenes of court life, mythology, and various religious themes. The octagonal columns and marvellous arches are decorated with murals of deities. The hall features an elevated seating known as the “Simhasana” (throne), where the king would sit during audiences.
Another notable feature of the Durbar Hall is its exceptional acoustics, meticulously designed to amplify the voices of speakers. This innovative design allowed the king to hear petitions and addresses from his subjects, ensuring that important matters of state were communicated audibly.
Bell Tower
The Bell Tower, also called the “Madanagopala Vilasa Mandiram,” stands approximately seven storeys tall, and is a prominent historic feature of the Thanjavur Palace complex. Reflecting the architectural style of the Nayaks of Senji, the tower features an in-built staircase with nearly a hundred steps leading to the top floor. Originally used for announcing the time with a gong and conch shells, the tower also functioned as a watchtower, as it offered a strategic vantage point to oversee the surroundings, allowing the royal guards to monitor any potential invasions or threats. Later, large bells were rung in this tower to signal significant events and gatherings within the palace.
The walls, which were constructed at a later stage, have been uncovered with the assistance of the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI). This excavation revealed several intriguing artefacts including pieces of celadon ware and dolls. Additionally, a small shrine, several portraits of royal personages, and a miniature tank-like structure were discovered on the ground floor. To ensure the site’s stability, the columns were reinforced, and protective barricades were installed for safety.
Today, the tower provides visitors with breathtaking panoramic views of Thanjavur.
Arsenal Tower
The Arsenal Tower, also known as the “Gooda- Gopuram,” is an imposing, approximately 192 feet tall structure with eight storeys. It was constructed by the Nayaks in the mid-17th century and was later expanded by the Marathas in the 19th century. Primarily built as an armoury to store weapons and ammunition, its height and location also made it a perfect watchtower. Interestingly, the tower was deliberately designed to resemble a temple in order to confuse invaders, making it less likely to be targeted during attacks, as the architectural style with its gopuram-like structure, cleverly camouflaged its true purpose. Inside the tower, there are several hidden chambers and passageways. Some chambers were designed with special acoustic properties, where whispers could be transmitted across multiple floors- an ingenious feature for communication during emergencies.
Additionally, the tower also houses a large whale skeleton, which was washed ashore at the Tharangambadi beach in 1955. The skeleton, measuring 92 feet long, adds an element of curiosity to the already fascinating tower.
Sangeetha Mahal
The Sangeetha Mahal was built by King Sevappa Nayak in the early 1600s. It was initially called “Navaratnamanamaina Nataka Sala” (the Theatre adorned with gems) due to its grand décor of exquisite chandeliers and precious stones. Later, it was renamed as the Sangeetha Mahal by the Marathas.
The architecturally and acoustically brilliant design ensures that sound is deflected evenly throughout the space, avoiding excessive amplification. This allows performances to be heard clearly, even in the back rows. The hall is also equipped with the clever feature of a water pool in front of the stage, which contributes to the flawless sound reflection within the space. This acoustical mastery is complemented by its aesthetic elements, such as vaulted roofs adorned with chandeliers.
Sangeetha Mahal was constructed with a strategic design where ordinary citizens could view performances from the ground floor, while the royal family could watch from concealed upper-level windows. This arrangement ensured privacy and security for the royals, as they could see without being seen by performers or the public.
Sangeetha Mahal is still used today for modern performances.
Royal Quarters
The Royal Quarters of the Thanjavur Palace, located within the sprawling complex, are historically significant as the living spaces of the rulers and their families. These quarters were designed with a blend of functionality, privacy, and opulence, reflecting the grandeur of the Nayak and Maratha periods. The royal quarters were composed of various rooms used for different purposes, such as sleeping chambers, meeting rooms, and areas for relaxation. These were lavishly decorated with murals, intricate woodwork, and ornate furniture, symbolising the wealth and power of the ruling class.
Rich tapestries, finely woven fabrics, and elegant stone carvings adorned these spaces. The quarters were also associated with religious practices, as some rooms were designated for worship. These sacred spaces were decorated with deities and were important in the daily life of the royals, reflecting their devotion and spiritual inclinations.
Today, the Royal Quarters stand as a testimony to the luxurious yet strategic living arrangements of the Thanjavur kings. While much of the original furniture and decor have been lost to time, the architectural brilliance still draws admiration from visitors.
Maharaja Serfoji II Memorial Hall (In Sardar Mahal Palace)
The Sardar Mahal Palace in Thanjavur stands as an architectural marvel, constructed in 1824 by King Serfoji II of the Maratha dynasty. This palace served as both the royal residence and the private Durbar of the king, reflecting the grandeur of Maratha architecture. Following his extensive travels to holy sites like Kashi (Varanasi), King Serfoji II created a space that played a significant role in the cultural life of Thanjavur, hosting various performing arts, including music and dance.
Within the Sardar Mahal Palace lies the Maharaja Serfoji II Memorial Hall, established in 1997 by his fourth descendant, H.H. Prince Tulajendra Rajah P. Bhonsle. This hall honours the legacy of King Serfoji II, a remarkable scholar fluent in several languages, including Marathi, Tamil, Sanskrit, Malayalam, Latin, Greek, French, and English. Known for his advanced thinking, he expanded the Saraswathi Mahal Library, acquiring around 400 books on science and technology from Europe and performing cataract surgeries, showcasing his expertise as an astronomer, naturalist, and educationist.
The Sardar Mahal houses a unique collection of relics, including Thanjavur paintings, ivory and silver items, crystal articles, armoury, furniture, glassware, and exquisite marble work, all reflecting the rich cultural heritage of the Maratha period.
As we stand amidst the grandeur of Thanjavur, it becomes evident that this city is not just a mere collection of ancient stones and relics; it is a vibrant tapestry woven with the threads of history, culture, and artistic brilliance. Each monument tells a story of power, ambition, and an unyielding spirit that has transcended centuries.
The legacy of the Chola, Nayak, and Maratha dynasties serve as a reminder of the complexities of human endeavour, where art and politics intertwine to create a cultural renaissance. The echoes of classical music, the vibrant colours of Thanjavur paintings, and the intricate designs of the palatial architecture invite us to immerse ourselves in a world where every corner whispers the tales of kings, scholars, and artists.
In celebrating Thanjavur, we are not just honouring a bygone era but also rekindling the flame of creativity and learning that defines the spirit of humanity. As we continue to explore and preserve this remarkable heritage, let us ensure that the stories of Thanjavur endure, inspiring future generations to appreciate the richness of their roots and the beauty of their shared history. For in these ancient walls lies not just the past, but the hope and promise of a brighter future, illuminated by the timeless wisdom of art and culture.
References:
- Thanjavur Tourism (no date) History || Thanjavur tourism. Available at: http://www.thanjavurtourism.com/history-thanjavur.html (Accessed: 06 October 2024).
- Doe, J. (no date) Saraswathi Mahal Library: Place of Interest: Tamil Nadu Tourism, Tamil Nadu Tourism. Available at: https://www.tamilnadutourism.tn.gov.in/destinations/saraswathi-mahal-library (Accessed: 06 October 2024).
- Thanjavur Maratha Palace (2024) Wikipedia. Available at: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thanjavur_Maratha_Palace (Accessed: 06 October 2024).
- Maharajah Serfoji II Memorial Hall Museum (no date) Maharajah Serfoji II Memorial Hall Museum, Sadar Mahal Palace, Thanjavur. Tamil Nadu-India. Available at: https://serfojimemorialhall.com/brief-history.html (Accessed: 06 October 2024).
- Thanjavur (2024) Wikipedia. Available at: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thanjavur (Accessed: 06 October 2024).
- Thanjavur Painting (2024) Wikipedia. Available at: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thanjavur_painting (Accessed: 06 October 2024).
- Thanjavur Palace – Thanjavur | Department of Archaeology. Available at: https://www.tnarch.gov.in/thanjavur-palace (Accessed: 06 October 2024).