Located in the heart of Kerala‘s vibrant and cultural capital, Thrissur, Sree Vadakkunnathan Temple holds a special reverence and awe in the city people’s lives. Considered one of the oldest Shiva temples in South India, the city of Thrissur (anglicised from ‘Thrissivaperur’) means ‘Place with the name of Lord Shiva’. Although one calls it a ‘temple’, Sree Vadakunnathan Temple is an expansive semi-rectangular temple complex within a square-shaped fortification covering around 36,000 square metres. It is perched on top of an odd circular-shaped hillock with an area of 25 hectares right in the city centre. The architecture of Sree Vadakunnatham Temple complex is a visual and a sensual treat to be explored with due reverence and patience. There are layers of history that need to be unmasked to understand its complex organisation and hierarchy.
Origins
Considered the final phase of the highly stylistic development of Kerala Temple architecture, Sree Vadakunnathan Temple’s origins are steeped in mythology. It is estimated to be more than 1000 years old and it is assumed that the development of the current Temple form of the sacred complex evolved in multiple phases. It is rumoured to be originally a shrine or ‘kavu’ (meaning a grove of trees) – often associated with tree worship of ancient culture. The temple as a structure must have started as a small Lingam symbolic of the Lord Shiva beside the sacred tree. Around this Lingam a small processional path which acts as the first boundary may have developed. As the tree grew old and fell, the shrine was encased in a simple square-shaped hut (typical of the period). A pillared cloister may be added to this and later the whole may be enclosed within protective walls with Gopurams or gateways. Other ancillary structures like Koothambalam, shrines for minor deities and functioning elements etc could have been added as years went by.
Architecture
As one approaches the temple complex through Thekkinkadu Maidan, the name of the gentle hillock, one is struck by the stone wall fortification and the grandeur of the entry gate or the ‘Gopuram’. There are Gopurams in each of the four cardinal directions. This square fortified enclosure defines the sacred precinct. The western Gopuram faces the ‘Sreemoolasthanam’ the place where the original Shiva Lingam is believed to be founded. The entry to the complex is through either the West or the East gopuram whereas the ones on the north and south are closed to the public. Each Gopuram has its distinct dimensions and adorning elements. The southern Gopuram faces the ground where the famous ‘Thrissur Pooram’ is held. The Southern Gopuram and the Western Gopuram feature three levels of roofing and are the largest of the four. The Eastern Gopuram and Northern Gopuram feature only 2 tiers of roofing although the base of the Eastern one is larger than the Northern one. Each of the Gopuram’s stone walls is intricately sculpted and detailed.
Within this fortified Gopurams lies the main sacred Temple complex enclosed by ‘Chuttambalam’ or cloister as well as buildings like Koothambalam (the temple theatre) and many shrines for various deities like Gosala Krishna, Sastha, Adi Shankara, Ayyappa, Parashurama etc. The outer palisade made of a wooden structure around the cloister for lighting the lamps is called ‘Dipamala’ and is a sight to behold during festive seasons.
The temple’s three main shrines namely Lord Shiva, Shankara Narayan and Srirama are laid out in the north-south axis within the Chuttambalam. The three distinct entrances from the west are directly aligned with each of these shrines’ openings. These independent Sreekovils or Grabha Grihas are all square and made of stone. All of them are fronted by a detached square-shaped Namaskaramandapa.
The northernmost Shrine within the complex, dedicated to Lord Shiva has a circular outer form in contrast to the square-shaped Sreekovil inside. The steep sloping conical roof over this circular plan has deep overhanging eaves made of wooden truss work on top of which copper sheets are clad. The western half of this shrine is dedicated to Siva and has its door opening with a flight of steps in front. The eastern half is dedicated to Goddess Parvati, Lord Shiva’s Wife, with the door opening on the east.
The shrine in the middle, though the smallest, is attributed to Sankara-Narayana, the combined form of Shiva and Vishnu—a manifestation unique to Kerala. This shrine also has a circular outer form with two-tiered independent conical roof structures. The first of these is the low-lying conical sloping roof which covers the outer wall with overhanging eaves supported by brackets sprung from the walls at intervals. The inner wall, rising further above the outer wall, carries the conical roof or ‘sikhara’. Both these roofs are similarly topped by copper sheets to the Lord Shiva Shrine in the north.
The southernmost shrine dedicated to Lord Vishnu manifested as Rama, is called Srirama Kovil. Unlike the other shrines, this one has a square-shaped form whose detailed carving and other design elements closely resemble that of the Southern Gopurams. The roof here too is clad in copper sheets.
An Architectural marvel yet to be explored?
The Sree Vadakunnathan temple follows a strict code with the priests and devotees adhering to ancient customs, including daily prayer ceremonies, ritual bathing of the various deities and other special offerings. The temple’s rich traditions are preserved and passed down through generations by the Cochin Dewaswom Board. Yet this very adherence to the ancient traditions of the Temple is often in conflict with its scientific study and research. The archaeological details regarding the origin and the other important layers of architectural interventions are often left out. To date, there is no conclusive consensus on the age of the various heritage structures within the complex. The temple’s timeless architecture and the intricate details of construction deserve a significant mention in UNESCO’s list of world heritage sites and must be carefully preserved and maintained to serve as one of the best Kerala has to offer the world of architecture.
