Famous nationally and internationally, Odisha boasts a rich culture and tradition of craft. With a wide range of crafts that are produced from locally available materials, crafts can widely vary depending on region. This is represented in districts of craft which enable artisans to collaboratively work together and share historical knowledge of their trades.

Metal Work in Odisha

Odisha’s silverware, and exemplary use of of thin metal wire work in the production of filigree, is a unique example of craftsman work which is unique to this state in India dating back more than 500 years. The filigree work produces a light yet strong artwork that is drawn through small holes and then soldered to create an exquisite mesh-like fabrication. As well as being of high quality and intricate construction, the designs are exemplified with common motifs including animals and birds. The silver work is used in jewelry such as brooches and earrings, as well as for producing receptacles for vermilion. These products of silver are made of high-standard steel—often of 90% purity. (Handicrafts of Odisha (Orissa), n.d.)

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Brass and bell metalwork in Odisha is an important character of the area. With it finding a place of pride within homes in Odisha. Objects of brass have both functional and ornamental value. It illuminates rooms with breathtaking lamps and lamp stands that celebrate deities, and are utilized in utensils, the production of bronze bangles, and engraved pots. Carrying on with traditional methods, the craftsmen in Odisha also explore innovative techniques and design characteristics that continue to reinvent the work. Brass work is often adorned with elephants and horses which provide intricate design to the fine brass work.

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Brass Vase Work_©httpswww.google.comurlsa=i&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.sublimetourodisha.com%2FCraftCheckout.aspx%3FSEOfrndl%3DTribal%2520Craft%2520Brass%2520Metal%2520Sale%26category%3DDhokra%2520Tri

Terracotta and Pottery

There are more than 10,000 terracotta artisans in the state. Often focused on craft pockets that foster and develop artistic skills, craft districts exist in Sonepure, Barapalli, Haldharpur, Nuagaon, Lunukua, and Kusumi. Terracotta and pottery in Odisha are used for traditional, decorative, and utility items (Handicrafts of Odisha (Orissa), n.d.). Varying in size and shape, works of terracotta are adorned with fish and flower motifs as well as geometrical designs. Based on local needs during religious occasions, horses and elephants may also be adorned on pottery. These works are offered to village goddesses to ward off disease and danger. As well as its utility and religious value, potters often create toys out of terracotta. Unique to Odisha, these toys can be found across the state and although simple, have unique designs which exhibit the traits of the locality it was produced (Handicrafts | Government Of Odisha, n.d.). 

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Golden Grass and Cane Works

Women make up a large portion of the artisans who construct grass and cane works. The grass of choice for construction is a reed grass known locally as “kaincha,” its name comes from the golden luster it gains during drying (Golden Grass – Directorate of Handicrafts, n.d.). Golden grass is a local organic fiber that is harvested, dried, and woven by the artisans. The exquisite works of golden grass include brackets, hand-fans, table mats, and floor mats. These products have a high demand due to their beauty, utility, and lasting quality. Cane, additionally sourced locally from the palm plant, is used for weaving baskets and several items of furniture (Handicrafts | Government Of Odisha, n.d.).

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Applique Works

Applique is an ornamental needlework where pieces of fabric are sewn or woven into a larger piece of fabric to form pictures or patterns. This method of collage is a characteristic work within Pipli and has led to great demand. Applique is utilized in many different applications often utilized in festive occasions adorning garden umbrellas, bags, heart-shaped fans, big and small canopies, and wall hangings to adorn festivals. In Odisha, tailors adorn applique works with animals, birds, flowers, and geometrical shapes to add depth and design to richly colored clothes (Handicrafts of Odisha (Orissa), n.d.).

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Pipili Odisha’s Applique_©httpswww.google.comurlsa=i&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.odishalifestyle.com%2Fpipili-odishas-manual-of-applique-work%2F&psig=AOvVaw2BfCuqTrFtfcWA8XDWUv_a&ust=1710193104053000&s

Horn Works

Horn work in Odisha produces lively objects of exquisite craft that demonstrate the incredible dexterity of a natural object. Hornworks are often made from cattle horns. The horn is shaped and polished smooth (Handicrafts | Government Of Odisha, n.d.). The most famous artisans originate in Paralahemundi, outside of Odisha’s Gajapati district. This region includes a rich history of horn work. Not fixed solely on works of horn, artisans often incorporate filigree to add dimension to the works and enable them to be used as jewelry and adorn bangles. Combs, pen-stands, and flower vases are also made of horns (Handicrafts of Odisha (Orissa), n.d.).

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Sarees and Other Fabrics

The design and work of sarees and other fabrics by handloom are some of the most popular items in Odisha. The sarees and fabric work reflect the region within Odisha in which they are produced. This is in response to local raw materials and historical design patterns. This produces a wide range of products that suit a wide range of tastes and affordability.

Within the Sambalpuri district, weavers work in either private or commercial operations and produce soft cotton and silk sarees that have distinct borders and pallu with animals, fish, conch shells, and flower motifs woven into the fabrics. Khandua Pata boasts elaborate designs with an attractive gloss, while Bapta incorporates both cotton and silk into single items to create a characteristic warp and weft. In addition to sarees, hand-woven bed sheets, bed covers, tablecloths, curtains, and dresses are produced by these artisans (Handicrafts | Government Of Odisha, n.d.).

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Blue Ikkat Sambalpuri Silk Saree_©httpswww.google.comurlsa=i&url=https%3A%2F%2Fpriyaodisha.com%2Fen-us%2Fproducts%2Fhandloom-sambalpuri-tissue-silk-saree-21&psig=AOvVaw1X05L8j5bkjsttZDpRop4a&ust=

Stone and Wood Carvings

Originating with the tradespeople who designed and crafted temples, these generational artisans keep the traditional sculpture alive through passed-down practices and skills. Crafts that are carved include replicas of temples, images of gods and goddesses, the Konark wheel and horse, and decorative figurines. These objects have become popular items for household decoration. Unlike other states in India, the stone and wood carvings of Odisha lack painting or lacquer—allowing the material to ornate the craftsmanship (Handicrafts | Government Of Odisha, n.d.). 

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Challenges of Handicraft in Odisha Today

Although historically a coveted profession, being an artisan in Odisha has become extremely difficult with a shrinking of the artisan class as life is found to be very distressful. Craftsmen have difficulty obtaining year-round employment, and have difficulty breaking into the national and global markets as individuals without intermediaries from other regions and countries. Additionally, government welfare policies in Odisha have had the effect of discouraging people from engaging in manual work which has reduced regional knowledge of craft production (Mahendra P. Agasty and Janmejay Senapati, 2015). 

Opportunities for Craft

There is a wide range of crafts within Odisha; however, the turn towards globalization has been a double-edged sword as reproduction and exploitation have raised concerns about the expanded market which has previously been receptive to the Odisha crafts. There is a need for greater government assistance to produce subsidies, training programs, and support season work to support the development and retention of regional knowledge and skills. This will work to preserve Odisha’s craft history and ensure that workers can achieve a sustainable way of life as the beautiful craft of Odisha continues to be shared with generations.

References:

Golden Grass – Directorate of Handicrafts (n.d.). Available at: https://crafts.odisha.gov.in/?crafts=golden-grass (accessed 10 March 2024).

Handicrafts | Government Of Odisha (n.d.). Available at: https://odisha.gov.in/odisha-tourism/handicrafts (accessed 9 March 2024).

Handicrafts of Odisha (Orissa) (n.d.). Available at: https://www.orissatourism.org/odisha-handicrafts/ (accessed 9 March 2024).

Mahendra P. Agasty and Janmejay Senapati (2015) Handicrafts industries in Odisha: Problems and prospects. International Journal of Multidisciplinary Research and Development 2(5): 517–521.

Author

Andrew Boghossian is a designer and researcher who graduated from Cornell University in 2023 with a Bachelors of Architecture with a concentration in architectural science and technology, as well as a minor in Urban and Regional Studies. He has worked in historic preservation, architectural design, and building deconstruction and salvage.