Timeline of restoration: Taj Falaknuma, Hyderabad

History And The Timeline Of Construction And Restoration | Taj Falaknuma

The Taj Falaknuma Palace is one of India’s most luxurious baroque mansions, with vast halls, awe-inspiring architecture, and royal grandeur. The word Falaknuma translates to Mirror of the Sky, and emblematically the Palace was built in the clouds atop Kohetoor hill at the height of 2000 feet from sea level in the city of Hyderabad. It was constructed on 32 acres of land, and the Palace edifice was built on an area of 93,970 sqm on order by Sir Nawab Vicar-Ul- Umra, an aristocrat from the Paigah lineage of the state of Hyderabad. It was completed in the year 1894, and it took ten years and four million rupees to create this magnificent citadel in the shape of a scorpion. This Palace was designed by the British architect William Mard Marret and owned in turns by Sir Vicar-Ul-Umra, PM of the State of Hyderabad, The Sixth Nizam Mahboob Ali Pasha, The Seventh Nizam Mir Osman Ali Khan Bahadur, and Prince Mukkaram Jah in order.

By the early 1980s, Prince Mukarram Jah had run through his inheritance, once deemed among the greatest fortunes of the 20th century. The estate was entangled in debt, in the middle of criminal litigation and public controversy. Ravaged and shuttered, reeling under the weight of family squabbles, neglect, and greed, the Falaknuma was a ghost of its former glory. As a final resort, he appealed to his former wife, Princess Esra Jah, to clear his tangled affairs.

Engaging, astute legal minds, the support of architects Rahul Mehrotra & Associates to carry out a conservation survey of the Palace, the London-based integrated design firm WATG, led by chief architect Nick Poynton, to create an architectural design, and textile expert Martand Singh, the Taj Group of Hotels turned the Falaknuma as the last word in Indian palace hotels after a makeover that Princess Esra zealously masterminded. The 60 years old design consultancy service WATG (Wimberly Allison Tong and Goo) based in London, and a Landscape consultancy firm P.T. Wijaya based in Bali, roped in to restore the Palace’s interior and exterior with past glory.

In her interviews with Architectural Digest, Princess Esra Jah reminisces the times when she first saw the ostentatious property as a young bride, recently wedded into the Asaf Jahi dynasty, which once ruled over Hyderabad. After three decades of divorce and living with her children in England, she received a phone call from her ex-husband Prince Mukarram Jah who wanted her to return to India and undertake the restoration of the Falaknuma Palace and The Chowmahalla Palace. “These ancestral palaces were in a state of utter disarray and neglect, and the people who knew the reason for me returning to India thought I was mad”, she says in one of her interviews. “I didn’t do it for personal glory, but only to be able to give back to Hyderabad something of the unique culture the Nizams had created over generations. It upset me very much to see it go to ruin,” says the princess, of the years of rigorous negotiation and labour the task entailed. (Nast, 2022)

The former residence of the Nizam family, Falaknuma Palace of Hyderabad, has been legally leased out to the Taj Group of Hotels Resorts and Palaces by the Royal Family, with Princess Esra Jah having personally supervised part of the Palace’s refurbishment to recreate the bygone aura of royalty. The guests can now experience Nizam’s hospitality which was once solely entitled to royalty. The charismatic Taj Falaknuma Palace beckons, making the guests feel like they are a part of history.

The Imperial Metamorphosis:

Architecture of the Falaknuma Palace

The architecture of the Falaknuma Palace is principally derived from classical Greek architecture and inspired by the designs of Andrea Palladio. It is a unique amalgamation of Tudor and Italian Architecture. The wall and plane have an emphasis on neoclassical architecture. During the renovation, the sculptural and protruding elements of the structure were flattened and scaled, yet they maintained their authenticity. Overall, the renovated Falaknuma Palace, with its frontal symmetry and flattened facade, bears the stamp of Neoclassicism. Rounded arches, classical ornamentation, friezes, and frontal symmetry are some of the iconic design elements. The main materials used were stone, plaster, and stucco.

Today, the 60 guest room property mirrors the original 19th-century design, with rich colours and textures, restored parquet flooring and woodwork, massive Venetian chandeliers, and antique furniture. The interiors of the Falaknuma Palace are a statement in royal splendour, owing to the rare furniture, objets d’art and murals encased in ornate frames, grand pristine white marble staircases, decorative inlaid furniture, rich handcrafted tapestries and brocades, crystal glass chandeliers, carved balustrades, priceless statues, gurgling fountains, stained-glass windows, a world-class collection of crystals, and Rajasthani, Mughal, and Japanese gardens. It has an Edwardian-style ballroom retained till now. It screams Nizami splendour.

The palace Library offers a collection of rare books, manuscripts, and one of the most acclaimed collections of the Holy Quran in the country and is a replica of the library at Windsor Castle. It exhibits large Venetian chandeliers, rare ornate inlaid furniture, priceless figurines, customized artefacts, portraits, paintings in ornate frames, and a sparkling crystal and jade collection. 

The dining hall at Taj Falaknuma Palace is among the largest rooms in the Palace, and the 101-seater dining table is the longest in the world at 80 feet. It is made of seven pieces; it is 5.7-foot wide and 2.7-foot high. The walls here feature 28 paintings of food items. The Nizam used to point at the items he wanted to eat. The 101 chairs at the dining table are made from green leather and are identical, except for the one used by the Nizam, whose armrests were higher.

Steeped and soaked in history, culture, and royal tradition, centuries-old palaces and Havelis have been resurrected, revitalized, and turned into money-making endeavours that offer experiential luxury – combining the charms of the old with the amenities of the new to create “timeless luxury”. 

Investing in the Past: The Restoration into a Luxury Hotel | Taj Falaknuma

The restoration work involved a voluminous task of bringing architects, interior designers, artisans, structural engineers, and historians to study, document, and look for all the materials they found during the conservation survey, which involved both literal and metaphorical digging. The restoration of the Falaknuma palace was more than just repairing the old. It was done with the intention of getting the past ready for the future, which involved making the heritage structure more energy efficient, curating the spaces, so the users stay in them for a longer time, converting them into museums, galleries, workshop spaces, or designing a potential reuse pattern for example – readying them as setups for new age music festivals, weddings, etc. 

Princess’s vision was to restore the main Palace, retain the opulence, and enhance the grandeur with the key idea of engaging authenticity with pragmatism. The experts had to ensure that the building fabric was not compromised in the process and that, if any new buildings were added, they were in keeping with the actual context—in terms of scale and spirit, if not an architectural style. It is very critical to remake ceilings and reinforce the primary structure of buildings. 

So, from tracking down the great-great-grandson of the original craftsman, who had executed the terracotta balustrades on some of the palace buildings, the restorers also undertook basic but essential repairs and protective measures to prevent further damage. “Restoring the physical fabric was a challenge,” says Ar. Rahul Mehrotra.(Nast, 2022)

The restoration project started in 2000 and was planned to be executed in 3 phases. The first phase demanded a conservation survey be carried out, which involved the fabric survey, detailed mapping, and preparation of conservation reports. The conservation reports include the identification of parts where restoration is required, potential reuse patterns, and identifying and sourcing the materials, finishes, and techniques existent in the Palace. The second phase was intended to stabilize the buildings, carry-out emergency repairs such as waterproofing and prop to check further deterioration, and out setting amenities. The third and final phase involved the actual restoration of the whole building complex, indoors and outdoors, and the installation of amenities to facilitate hassle-free usage of these structures in the present time. The restoration work was executed by traditional craftsmen using traditional techniques to maintain the integrity of the historic building. 

Utmost care was taken to not damage any of the walls in the main Palace. Installing the air conditioning system and revamping the lights within the main Palace was a major challenge. After loads of discussion on the ducting pattern, the experts decided to provide air conditioning only in certain areas, like the 101-seater dining hall, the hookah room, the chess room, and the billiards room. In historical suites, all the wiring has been routed through the floor to ensure that murals and paintings are not damaged.      

God is in the details of this exquisite property. The Palace mirrors the Nawab Vicar’s taste and makes it a repository of everything he saw when he travelled. It retains the eclectic blend of Renaissance architecture, French charm, Baroque aesthetics, and art deco sensibilities woven into the Palace’s décor and, of course, its true-blue Nizam flavour.

The carpets were dyed many times to match the colour of the now withered carpet. The sparkling cutlery at the dining table was customized after peering into ancient photographs of the Nizam’s dining extravagance. The exterior walls were painted 15 times before the perfect shade of grey could be selected to resemble the sky. From sourcing the perfect upholstery to refurbish the couches and chairs, to choosing fresh drapes to match the aesthetic of rooms, to sourcing natural products to paint the heavenly foyer, repairing damaged pieces, recreating broken structures, polishing the marble, and blending in new wings and spaces to accommodate more rooms, extra landscape and additional restaurants – the renovation was done extensively. Furthermore, various types of woods, ten kinds of leather, and 32 varieties of Italian marble were procured from various places in India. The renovation materials were sourced from different parts of India and various countries like France, Belgium, Italy, Japan, etc.  

After the restoration job that lasted almost a decade (the hotel opened in 2010), Taj Falaknuma Palace takes the guests on a journey into the clouds and into the gilded ages, where magnificence and excess are celebrated and savoured in equal measure. Amidst the sounds of Azaans and Qawalis streaming in from the mosques around, the cacophony of old Hyderabad city, the Taj Falaknuma Palace in its alluring, tranquil grey merges with the overcast skies befitting its name, Mirror of the Sky: Falaknuma.

References

Nast, C., 2022. How to Restore Your Palace: Inside India’s Stately Mansions | AD India. [online] Architectural Digest India. Available at: <https://www.architecturaldigest.in/content/how-to-restore-your-palace-inside-indias-most-stately-mansions/> [Accessed 16 September 2022].

List Of Illustrations:

1. The Taj Falaknuma Palace: Jewel of the Deccan 

            ©https://www.kuoni.co.uk/india/other-cities/hotels/taj-falaknuma-palace-hyderabad

1. Topographic map of palace’s hilltop location and an inset showing plan of the palace in 2004

© Andreas Volwahsen, MIT Libraries DOME (https://dome.mit.edu/handle/1721.3/36809)

1. Front View of the Taj Falaknuma Palace 

© Bernard Gagnog 

(https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Falaknuma_Palace)

1. Interior courtyard of the Taj Falaknuma Palace

            ©Wimberly Allison Tong & Goo

1. Gol Bungalow at Taj Falaknuma Palace 

© Taj Hotels

            (https://www.tajhotels.co.uk/our-properties/palaces/taj-falaknuma-palace-hyderabad/)

1. The illustration above shows the timeline of construction and consecutive renovations of the Falaknuma Palace and the change in ownership over the period of 126 years (From 1884 till the present)

 ©Author

1. The Grand Staircase: An invitation to explore the majestic environs of the past. Walking up the grand staircase of the palace feels like walking back through time. Each step takes you deeper into history. 

© Kuoni Holidays

            (https://www.kuoni.co.uk/india/other-cities/hotels/taj-falaknuma-palace-hyderabad)

1. Taj Falaknuma Palace Library: One of the largest spaces in the Palace with a ceiling of ornate teak and rosewood coffers with superbly carved panels 

© Architectural Digest

            (https://www.architecturaldigest.in/content/a-book-lovers-guide-to-hotel-libraries/)

1. Jade Room: The Victorian style hand painted ceilings, Belgian cut glass chandeliers coupled with the breathtaking views of the 400 year old city make the jade room an ideal venue for the Nizam’s most beloved ritual – Afternoon Tea 

© Taj Hotels

            (https://www.tajhotels.co.uk/our-properties/palaces/taj-falaknuma-palace-hyderabad)

1. Dining Hall at the Taj Falaknuma Palace: Interiors of guest rooms and public areas reflect the royal decadence and heritage with restrained elegance. The Durbar Hall, Jade Room and dining hall are all lit with Belgian chandeliers.

            © Wimberly Allison Tong & Goo

1. Durbar Hall at The Taj Falaknuma Palace 

© The Taj Hotels

            (https://www.tajhotels.co.uk/our-properties/palaces/taj-falaknuma-palace-hyderabad)

1. The Taj Falaknuma Palace © The Taj Hotels (https://www.tajhotels.com/en-in/taj/taj-falaknuma-palace-hyderabad/image-gallery/)
2. Marble foyer at The Taj Falaknuma Palace: Frescoes bearing a mix of Indian and English art reflect landscapes of earlier times in a fancy indoor seating arrangement made of marble around a marble fountain. 

© Kuoni Holidays

            (https://www.kuoni.co.uk/india/other-cities/hotels/taj-falaknuma-palace-hyderabad)

1. Luxury rooms at The Taj Falaknuma Palace 

© The Taj Hotels

           (https://www.tajhotels.com/en-in/taj/taj-falaknuma-palace-hyderabad/image-gallery/)

1. The Princess Room: Blending modernity with the Nizami splendour 

© The Taj Hotels (https://www.tajhotels.com/en-in/taj/taj-falaknuma-palace-hyderabad/image-gallery/)

1. Exterior: Terrace Lighting Using Classical Statues 2004

© Andreas Volwahsen, MIT Libraries DOME      (https://dome.mit.edu/handle/1721.3/36809)